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What are your store hours and where are you located?

Our store is located at:
245 W Carl Karcher Way
Anaheim, CA 92801

Our hours are:
Monday through Friday: 7AM to 4PM.
Saturday: 6:30AM to 11:30AM
Closed on Sunday

Roll On Rock® System

Concrete Profile:
Aggressive concrete preparation is not needed with this system. This is because the 5205 wicks into the concrete. Start with a clean porous concrete surface and grind the concrete using a 7-inch or larger grinder with a diamond grinding wheel to achieve a concrete texture similar to a 150 grit sandpaper. As a general rule an average 2 car garage should take about 30 minutes for 1 man to do. Do not acid etch period.
Extra Build tip:
5205 is great as a first topcoat over the flake when you want to create extra build, the reason is that you can apply it thinner so it seals the flake (Prevents the 5073 from diving into the flake) and it is dry in 20-30 minutes so you can put a coat of 5073 on top and all of it will remain on top since the flake is already sealed. This saves money for the 2 coat installer because the 5205 is less expensive, covers more and dries extremely fast.
How to improve Potlife:
First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When a section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.
Touch Up a Holiday Where The Flake Did Not Hold:
This will not be an issue with experienced installers but if you do get a holiday where the flake does not cover then go ahead and use the 5205 and apply it very tight to the surface that needs more flake. Then sprinkle a very small amount of flake onto it just so it blends in to the rest of the area. DO NOT OVER FLAKE! This is the biggest mistake people make and it will be noticeable. Look at the touched up area from other angles to be sure it blends in. Allow it to dry 20 minutes then do a light re-scrape. Now your floor is ready to be sealed.
5073 Topcoat Tips:
Work the material as listed above in the how to get most potlife per section of concrete. The biggest thing to stress is uniform thickness. By using an 18 inch roller you are spreading the material more evenly since there are 2 pressure points be applied to the roller (the left & right side). Also be sure to cross roll all sections before proceeding to the next section. Watch for low spots or puddles as these will become shiners (round glassy areas that are noticeable). If applying another coat after 24 hours then be sure to lightly sand the surface to de-gloss it. 5073 Tip Guide can be accessed by clicking here 5073 Rolling Techniques
New Construction Selling Point:
On most new developments the garage floor option is the last option to be done so it is usually done a day or so before the close of escrow. With most systems you have to wait 2-3 days before being able to use the floor. That is not the case with system 4, they can put it back in use the next day which means the development can release the property a day or 2 early which saves them interest and it reduces the chance of call back since the floor will be ready to take wear from other subs doing clean up.
Chip Profile:
The chips will tend to lay flatter in the 5210, creating less surface profile when applying your clear topcoat.


What do you do on a garage floor when you have a control joint or an expansion joint in the concrete floor which you want to install the roll on rock system 4 over?

You always leave them. Be careful not to let the epoxy puddle into the joint. When scraping the flake you will also trim the edges of saw cuts by slicing the scraper along the edge of joint. This cuts the flake edges off to the edge of concrete leaving a clean line. The reason you do not fill the joints is that whatever you fill it with will probably crack from the expansion and contraction of joint.

What is MVE?

MVE stands for moisture vapor emissions. We refer to this when applying a coating over a concrete slab on grade. When there is moisture beneath the slab it can travel up through the slab as vapor. Usually the hottest time of the day is when you have the highest levels of MVE. For example you will see some slow drying coatings bubble as they dry when applied in the heat of the day and not bubble when applied at cooler times. We rate our coatings adhesion based on MVE, for a non breathable epoxy type system. Basically the better it adheres, the higher the MVE it can withstand before blowing off or blistering. We base our recommendations off of calcium chloride tests, which measure the MVE coming off a slab, this test takes about 2-3 days to perform. We can then recommend a coating that will work based on the final result of the test. The bottom line is that pretty much all of our systems will withstand 5-8 lbs of mve and then we have others that will go to 18lbs. Stay away from anything in the high teens as they are probably not worth the risk. We have our system 1 down on 3 jobs with readings of 25 lbs as a test (over a year old) and so far they are holding. System one uses all water based technology which is considered breathable and that is why we have been testing it with these extreme levels of MVE.

What is the best way to roll the clear topcoat?

Most installers use an 18-inch no lint roller for topcoats, some use squeegees. The end result should be a uniform film that is rolled out evenly. If the garage is broken up into 4 sections by control or expansion joints then you will want to do one square at a time and move on to the next one when the first square is finished off evenly. A good method to start with is to pour 2 bands of material in the section splitting the square into 3 rectangles. This will create a railroad track pattern. If using Polyurea or 5400 water based Urethane then you will want to keep the material in the bucket and only use it as you need it. If it is CRU or epoxy then you will want to pour it all out of the bucket onto the floor so it stays open longer. Now that you have the railroad tracks, you will begin to spread the material across the tracks going in the same direction as railroad ties. Work the material evenly while working quickly. There is no need to slow roll, you also can overlap the expansion joints so just be sure to work fast. To finish off the square you will want to cross-roll the section in the same direction as the railroad tracks. Pay attention to the sound of the roller if using one, it will sound louder where the material is thin and quieter where it is thick. Be sure the section looks good before proceeding to the next section. You will not want to touch up a section much more than 5 or 10 minutes after finishing it because the material may not flow and level out which may make the touch up noticeable. Finish all sections in this manner and you will have a beautiful floor. You may want to finish the sections leading to the home entrance first since the material will be loose and easy to work with and the entrance is what your customer will be looking at every day. For garages that have no expansion joints you should start at the right or left side and work from the back to the front and cross-roll the completed area after you have completed about 5-7 feet. You do not want to do much more than 5-7 feet because it is important to maintain a wet edge if you do not want to see any roller marks. Another tip is to cut in the curb walls first and to also use a sausage roller for edges.

Impact Resistance:

The wicking technology of our 41 series epoxy penetrates deep into the concrete which does improve the impact resistance over non wicking epoxies of the same thickness. However our most popular coatings are between 20 & 30 mils thick so there is not a lot of build to be impact proof. Adding a full broadcast layer of flake will also improve the resistance due to the flake being able to absorb a small amount of the energy before it is transferred to the concrete below. There is still a chance that dropping an item can cause the concrete underneath to become distressed and crumble even when under a full broadcast. When this occurs the epoxy has nothing to hold onto and will lift. Ultimately it is the concrete that fails which then causes the coating to fail. If impact resistance is extremely important then we recommend that you install a 100 mil system that contains quartz or silica, typically these system are called epoxy mortar systems and they are usually more expensive due to the materials required to achieve the build and the extra labor to install it. As you can imagine, these higher build systems are much more resistant to spalling from an item being dropped on it because there is a much thicker and harder surface above it that will absorb the impact, preventing damage from occurring in the underlying concrete. If a high build floor is not for you and you expect to drop items on the floor then we suggest that you retain some of your coatings so you can do small repairs as needed. Here are a few images to show how the epoxy can lift from damaged concrete as a result of an item being dropped on it.

Crack Resistance:

The same conversation above can also apply to cracks in concrete. A thin mil coating as well as a high build 100 mil coating in this case will not prevent the concrete from cracking. The energy caused from the movement of concrete is much higher than what a coating can withstand. You can expect the epoxy coating to crack if the underlying concrete cracks. This holds true to expansion joints and control joints as well.

Scratch Resistance:

All of our topcoats are considered scratch resistant, please don’t confuse that with scratch proof. We have done a great deal of research and development into making our coatings scratch resistant for most of the common items found in a garage, commercial, and industrial floor. We have also created coatings to be hot tire resistant (probably the most important feature). This applies to our Chemical Resistant Urethanes that we have had out for 20 years, our newer waterbase CRU’s, Polyurea and Polyaspartic coatings as well. All of those products will provide more scratch resistance than our epoxies and this is due to them being a softer more resilient product than an epoxy. One of the benefits of epoxy (strength) is also the reason that it can become scratched easier. This is why the epoxy flooring industry has applied urethanes over epoxies for decades. We recently had a DIY customer complain that the electric toys that their kids played on caused some scratching in the chemical resistant topcoat. As you can see from the photo below that there is some scratching in the clear topcoat, you can also see the toys in one of the photos and those toys have the really hard plastic tires (Unlike tires on a car, golf cart, dolly or forklift). You can expect that hard tires on a toy (or other device) will scratch a clear topcoat, especially when it slides across or when the tire spins on the surface. Research and Development is an ongoing process at VBP, and if our team discovers a way of making a clear topcoat truly scratch proof then you can bet we will be screaming it from the mountain tops. Until that day happens please inform your customers that our floor coatings are not scratch proof and to expect some scratching when letting items with hard sharp edges spin or slide on the floor.

Product Tips

  • Tips for Versa-Deck

    Metal Lath:
    Do not grind the metal lath as when preparing the surface to receive fiberglass. This removes the rust protection from the lath and may allow it to rust. Also do not pound in the staples as this can remove the protective coating around the staple.
    Metal Lath Cement:
    After trowling an area you can spray a small amount of water onto the wet cement and smooth trowel it for a smoother finish. DO NOT OVERWATER OR CRACKING WILL OCCUR!
    Wrinkles and Bubbles:
    Most wrinkles and bubbles can be eliminated by using a metal fiberglass roller. The proper technique is to roll the metal roller over freshly laminated fiberglass (just after rolling with a normal roller) by applying moderate pressure and rolling back and forth over the area it will cut into the fiberglass and make it sit down tight to the deck. To make the fiberglass roller last a long time, keep it in a pail that has a few inches of water in it while working. This will prevent the laminating resins from gumming up the roller. If the roller becomes caked with laminating re-using then you can use a normal paint stripper to remove it.
    Repairing Bubbles and Wrinkles:
    Cut out the areas using a razor blade and fill with patch=ing compound before proceeding to next step.
    Fiberglass Seams:
    There are 2 options in regards to seams. 1. You can butt the fiberglass together and then when dry fill the seams with patching compound. 2. You can fold the fiberglass in half (so both seam edges are together) and then begin to fray the edges of the fiberglass by pulling it apart with your index finger and thumb. Then when you butt the fiberglass together and laminate it you can use the metal roller to make it appear as a seamless piece. The ends will meld together in most areas.
    Applying the Topcoat:
    Do not apply the topcoat in the extreme heat of the day as this will cause streaks because a wet edge can not be maintained. Also be aware that the surface temperature may be much hotter than the air temperature which can affect adhesion. Wait until it is cooler and then apply 2 coats (the 2nd coat at a right angle of the 1st) while maintaining a wet edge.

  • Tips for Versa-Glaze

    Solvent Blisters:
    Do not apply a 2nd coat the same day or solvent blisters may appear due to the solvent from the first coat still escaping.
    Streaking:
    To avoid streaking always maintain a wet edge. As this material provides a wet look if it dries before the roller pass runs up next to it there will be a chance of streaking. Also apply at cooler times in the day to allow the material to stay wet longer.
    Which Application Technique Should I Use:
    Pump up sprayer, most concrete guys will spray the material on using this method because they have more experience using it. Usually the material is thinned first with Xylene for best results or Acetone in stricter AQMD districts.
    Rolling, most painters use rollers because they have more experience with this method. It is probably slightly harder to maintain a wet edge this way but at least you don't have to worry about overspray.

  • Tips for Polytop 5050

    Polytop is best applied by spraying. Here is the section pulled from the install guide that goes over the spraying technique:
    Spray technique:
    Use a solvent resistant pump sprayer with 40-50 psi of pressure or HVLP sprayer with the desired tip. Typical use is to thin the 5050 Polytop with MEK or Xylene at one part mixed 5050 to 1 -2 parts MEK or Xylene. Generally the 1st coat is thinned at 1 to 1 and second coats at 2 to 1.Be sure that no floating dust is present & the surface is clean. A wipe down with denatured alcohol is recommended, prior to spraying. ( Note: The recoat time in between coats varies on ambient temperature. Hot climates dry faster. 2nd coat should be applied while the 1st coat is slightly tacky. If you miss this window, sand the surface w/ 150 or 220 grit sand paper.)
    Second Coat:
    Sometimes bubbles may occur in first coat due to out gassing of moisture vapor rising from within the concrete slab. Sand down any bubbles or other blemishes before applying the final coat. Follow same mixing procedure as above while maintaining a dust free environment. Apply second coat over the first coat 2-5 hours after the application of first coat. Work the material evenly to a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (25-ft/gallon). If coating more than 12 hours later then the surface should be sanded lightly. This will de-gloss the finish and cause micro-scratches in the coating creating tooth for the second coat of 5050. Allow PolyTop to dry for at least 24 hours before light use and take great care while it reaches it maximum cure which occurs in 5 days.

  • Tips for Accelerators

    Accelerators Temperature Range:
    Expect the same dry time as 70 degrees when using 1 accelerator pack per kit of material at 50 degrees and 2 packs at 40 degrees.

  • Tips for 4800 Industrial Floor Epoxy

    Coating Over Concrete:
    4800 is an industrial grade epoxy that has great flow and leveling however it should not be applied direct to concrete. Be sure to use a primer suited for concrete before use.
    Coating Large Areas:
    For large with widths of more than 30 feet it is best to maintain a wet edge by having 1 squeegee operator per 30 feet and 1 backroller per 60 feet of width. Also have a 1 mixing operator for every 3 squeegee operators. The idea is to start at one end of the facility and have all squeegee operators spread the material towards the other end while they are all working in infusion with each other to maintain the wet edge. Then the backrollers are following behind them on cleats backrolling the squeegeed material to a uniform level. Always plan starting and stopping points to be at joints in the concrete.
    Using As a Build Coat Over Chip:
    Be sure to use the 4800 Non Yellowing material when using the 4800 as an inexpensive build coat over the flake. Do not apply the coating beyond the point where the garage door touches the ground. 4800 will yellow when exposed to normal exterior exposure so if you coat the outer lip of concrete beyond the garage door you can expect it to yellow. If needed use the final topcoat as the build coat for areas getting exterior exposures. Allow the 4800 to completely dry before top coating it. If top coating it with a waterbased topcoat then be sure to lightly sand the 4800 first.
    Pot Life:
    As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 4800, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
    Accelerating:
    Use 48 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.
    Customer Comments:
    F.Y.I. (from Shayne)
    I recommended the 5205 as a primer coat under the 4195 for a monolithic floor. Cliff of Hyteck painting advised that worked great. The 4195 glided over the floor and it was so shiny that he thought it wasn’t dry after 45 minutes and had to touch to see if it was dry. He also mentioned that he got better coverage out of the 4195 with that primer. He thinks he is going to try the entire hybrid system on his next job, but he said he will not use the 4195 without that primer under it again.

  • Tips for 4150 Pigmented Vapor Stop Epoxy Primer-Sealer

    Coating Floors Over 10bs of MVE:
    We recommend shotblasting or other mechanical profile be done on concrete surfaces that have an MVE Reading of between 10 and 20lbs. A coat of 4100 primer should also be used over slabs that have 15lbs or more of MVE. DO NOT USE ON FLOORS WITH HIGHER THAN 20LBS MVE!
    Coating Over Tight Hard Troweled Concrete:
    Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates. When dry, apply a second coat at full strength.
    Chip Window:
    We have found that it is best to allow the 4150 lay on the floor for 30 minutes before throwing the chips (when it is applied directly over concrete). If chipped sooner then you run the risk of the 4150 wicking up into the flake as well as down into the concrete. This will leave a ghosting effect which makes the concrete substrate visible around the edges of the flake.
    Accelerating:
    Use 41 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

  • Tips for 5073 Fast Drying Polyurea

    Extra Build tip:
    5205is great as a first topcoat over the flake or other absorbant surface when you want to create extra build, the reason is that you can apply it thinner so it seals the surface (Prevents the 5073 from diving into the flake) and it is dry in 20-30 minutes so you can put a coat of 5073 on top and all of it will remain ontop since the flake is already sealed. This saves money for the 2 coat installer because the 5205 is less expensive, covers more and dries extremely fast.
    How to Get The Most Potlife:
    First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.
    5073 Topcoat Tips:
    Work the material as listed above in the how to get most potlife section. The biggest thing to stress is uniform thickness. By using an 18 inch roller you are spreading the material more evenly since there are 2 pressure points be applied to the roller (the left & right side). Also be sure to cross roll all sections before proceeding to the next section. Watch for low spots or puddles as these will become shiners (round glassy areas that are noticeable). If applying another coat after 12 hours then be sure to lightly sand the surface to de-gloss it.
    5073 Reported Problems Due to Unique Application Techniques:
    2 Quick Thick Coats. If you try to do 2 thick topcoats quickly that you can get solvent blisters or other film defects due to the blocking of solvent release of first coat. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying second coat. Remember this material is designed to stay open in mas so if you put it on real thick it will take longer to dry, hence the long potlife when in the container. Try using a tight coat of 5205 and then topcoat that with 5073 30 minutes later, this should give you the build you are looking for.

  • Tips for 5300 Series Urethanes

    Heat Blisters:
    5300 series can get bubbles or blisters if applied in extreme heat. Just be sure to apply in cooler times of the day or switch to one of our other sealers that do not show this problem.
    Coating Over Concrete:
    5300 is an industrial grade chemical resistant that has great flow and leveling however it should not be applied direct to concrete. Be sure to use a primer suited for concrete before use.
    Coating Large Areas:
    For large with widths of more than 30 feet it is best to maintain a wet edge by having 1 squeegee operator per 30 feet and 1 backroller per 60 feet of width. Also have a 1 mixing operator for every 3 squeegee operators. The idea is to start at one end of the facility and have all squeegee operators spread the material towards the other end while they are all working in infusion with each other to maintain the wet edge. Then the backrollers are following behind them on cleats back rolling the squeegeed material to a uniform level. Always plan starting and stopping points to be at joints in the concrete.
    Pot Life:
    As is the case with most epoxy's, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
    Accelerating:
    Use 53 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

  • Tips for 5000 100% Solids Clear Polyurea

    Tools:
    Always use an 18 inch roller for this product (or squeegee and backroll)
    Coating Over Flake:
    Only mix what can be used in 30 minutes (if potlife recommendations are followed). Pour the material out onto the floor and work it evenly across the floor by using the backroll technique. Avoid putting it on thicker than 150 sq ft per gallon. Watch for low spots or puddles because they will be noticeable when dry because the 500 will level out like glass in that area and be extra shiny.
    Coating Over Solid Color or Stained Floors:
    It is very important to use lint free rollers because the 5000 is so shiny it will show every spec of dust (much like a car paint job). Some specks may look like a bubble but they are only a spec of dust. Most of these will be unnoticeable after a few week break in period of wear. Be sure to get the material on quickly and evenly so it is fluid enough to release any bubbles that may be caused during application. As it begins to thicken the bubbles will not be able to escape. Because the floor is a solid color it will show bubbles more readily as the human eye is naturally drawn to it. If unsure of your ability, please do a sample area to familiarize yourself with the material. 5000 is used by many applicators to seal decorative concrete because of its gloss and odor free nature, however these applicators know how to use it properly.
    Outgassing Bubbles Caused By Normal MVE:
    Apply the 5000 when the temperatures are beginning to cool if you want to avoid bubbles caused by mve outgassing. Also try and do it when the temperature of the day is about 20% lower than the high for the day. These are some proven techniques that do work in regards to reducing the bubbles that can occur within the film by moisture vapor rising from within the concrete.
    Higher Than Normal MVE:
    Some applicators have had great success using a fast setting primer like our 5205 as a primer over slabs that have a higher amount of MVE. This is probably due to the fact that the 5205 starts to set up and go hard before any large amount of MVE has a chance to rise to the surface. As we learn more we will update this area. Obviously you may still get some bubbles and if so, go ahead and sand then and re-apply the 5205. This take care of it most of the time.
    High MVE That Can Cause a Coating To Fail:
    Test those suspect floors using our moisture test kits to determine the amount of MVE. Basically if you are applying a clear you will need to use non-yellowing material like our 5205, however we do not recommend that at levels higher then 5lbs at this point. For interior areas the best vapor blocking epoxy is 4100 but beware that it will darken the surface substantially due to its deep penetration. If you are unsure of how to proceed call VBP and speak to a technical person for some primer options.
    Pot Life:
    As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 5000, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
    Accelerating:
    Use 50 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

  • Tips for 4195 Direct to Concrete Penetrative Primer-Sealer

    Concrete Profile:
    We do not recommend aggressive concrete preparation with this product. If you will be shotblasting then a primer like our 4100 or fast drying 5205 Hybrid is recommended. This is because the 4195 wicks into the concrete and if you open the concrete up there may be some suck out which will leave areas that did not hold much chip. All that is needed is a clean porous concrete surface. Do not acid etch period. Do not grind or shotblast unless there is an existing sealer or bond breaker present.
    Open Time:
    You can add up to 1 cup of solvent to each one gallon kit. This will add more open time and increase you flaking window. Use Xylene in most areas for best results or use Acetone in strict AQMD districts.
    Chipping Window:
    Wait at least 15 minutes if the concrete is very porous or 20 minutes if it is tight before throwing the flake. If you throw the flake too soon you risk the chance of the 4195 Epoxy wicking up into the chip as well as the concrete. If this occurs then the edges of the flake may have a transparent look. Watch the floor and start flaking if it looks like it is starting to set up but be sure to flake within 45 minutes or so.
    Just Before Chipping into 4195
    Right after laying about 2 kits of 4195 and using the same roller used to apply the 4195, go out onto the wet floor and dry roll the 4195 (which should not take any longer than 10 minutes). This will cause the 4195 to tack up in areas that it may be drying. The chips will stick more evenly to the 4195 when using this method.
    Touch Up a Holiday Where The Flake Did Not Hold:
    This will not be an issue with experienced installers but if you do get a holiday where the flake does not cover then go ahead and use the 5205 (or the topcoat you will be using) and apply it very tight to the surface that needs more flake. Then sprinkle a very small amount of flake onto it just so it blends in to the rest of the area. DO NOT OVER FLAKE! This is the biggest mistake people make and it will be noticeable. Look at the touched up area from other angles to be sure it blends in. Allow it to dry 20 minutes (or the amount of time your topcoat needs) then do a light re-scrape. Now your floor is ready to be sealed.
    Customer Comments:
    F.Y.I. (from Shayne)
    I recommended the 5205 as a primer coat under the 4195 for a monolithic floor. Cliff of Hyteck painting advised that worked great. The 4195 glided over the floor and it was so shiny that he thought it wasn’t dry after 45 minutes and had to touch to see if it was dry. He also mentioned that he got better coverage out of the 4195 with that primer. He thinks he is going to try the entire hybrid system on his next job, but he said he will not use the 4195 without that primer under it again.

  • Tips for 5400 and 5410 Chemical Resistant Urethane

    White Foamy Areas:
    5400 will look white when applied too thick. It is rated for under 10 wet mils and if it is thicker than that bubbles will occur which make some areas look white. Watch for puddling around curbwalls and joints, just run a dry brush or roller over those areas to pick up excess materials before moving onto next section.
    Foams Very Quick After Mixing:
    This is because the material is very hot from being left under the sun in the container, etc. We have tested the material at higher temperatures and it will foam up very quickly after mixing when it is too hot. Keep the material temperature under 100 degrees to prevent this from happening.
    I get White Areas When Installing While It Is Raining:
    We do not recommend installing 5400 clear when it is raining outside due to the elevated moisture levels in the air. High moisture levels can cause the 5400 to get white areas. Use other topcoat products like the 5000, 5073 or 5300 if you are usually installing under these types of conditions.
    Exterior Use:
    Use the 5205 primer on exterior areas or a tight coat of 4001 if you want a breathable system. Be cautious using the 4001 because it will yellow when exposed to exterior UV so do not allow it to have any build. Do not use in extreme MVE areas next to really wet landscaping, pools, etc.
    Hot Tire Marks:
    We have heard of 2 instances where hot tires have left an oily residue from July 06 to August 07 (one of them was from extra wide off road truck tires). In this period there is over 800,000 sq ft of 5400 installed. If it is caught early all that is needed is a wipe down of the are using M.E.K.
    Solid Color Coats:
    Be sure that all of the pigment packs are the same lot number, if not box them together before adding. We do not recommend 5410 for industrial floors exposed to forklift traffic (use 4800, 5300 or 5073 as the topcoat in these types of areas).

  • Tips for 4010 Waterbased Pigmented Epoxy

    Using the 4010 For a Chip System Without The Primer:
    We have quite a few customers who use the 4010 directly over concrete and then apply the flakes into it. They are very experienced and know how to work with it. They always profile the concrete by using an etch or other mechanical technique. The failure rate is under 5% and these applicators factor that into their business model. The second problem created is that the material sets up very fast when used this way because it is being sucked out into porous concrete so you need to throw the chips over it very quickly or they will not stick that well. If you choose to go this way it would probably be better for you to use the 4020 below since it has a longer potlife. This is why we recommend the 4005 primer for our system 1.
    Chip Profile:
    The chips will tend to lay flatter in the 4010 or 4020, creating less surface profile when applying your clear topcoat.
    Pot Life:
    As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 4010, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material. The 4010 will take at least 3 hours to cure hard enough to scrape.
    Accelerating:
    We do not have an accelerator, however you can leave the mixed material in the container and allow it to heat up and then use it. This Exotherm causes the material to set up quicker but should only be attempted by experienced installers since there is a chance the material will turn into a big hard unusable mass

  • Tips for 4100 Clear Vapor Blocking Epoxy

    Using As a Primer For Cementitous Overlays:
    4100 is a great primer for overlays, it wicks into the concrete, even old oily concrete and it provides a vapor block which will reduce the chances of the overlay from bubbling up from the surface due to MVE. Most decorative overlay contractors have at least one job they know of where their overlay always bubbles up and they have to go back and repair it each year. 4100 prevents allot of this from happening in the first place if installed correctly. First be sure you are coating over clean porous concrete, if you suspect more than 10lbs of MVE then mild shotblasting or grinding should be done to get an ICRI of at least 3. When removing the loose sand the next day it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that the surface look like sandpaper. If not you will have glassy shiny areas and the Cementitous materials will not bond well to these areas. If you have shiny spots apply a fast setting epoxy like our 4910 or 5205 hybrid primer to the area and then re-apply the sand. Wait 20 minutes or so and remove the sand, now you are ready to apply the topping.
    Using As a Primer For Other Products:
    If allowed to dry for 24 hours or more and the 4100 is very hard then lightly sand the 4100 (use a floor buffer with 160 screens) before applying other 2 component topcoats.
    Coating Floors Over 10bs of MVE:
    We recommend shotblasting or other mechanical profile be done on concrete surfaces that have an MVE Reading of between 10 and 20lbs.DO NOT USE ON FLOORS WITH HIGHER THAN 20LBS MVE!
    Coating Over Tight Hard Troweled Concrete:
    Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates.
    Coating Over Oil Stained Concrete:
    Clean of as much of the oil contaminants as possible and allow to dry. Some applicators will burn off heavily stained areas using a small propane torch. Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates. Apply 4100 to the concrete in stained area as a test and allow to dry. When dry check the 4100 to evaluate its penetration and adhesion to the concrete and if satisfied proceed to seal the entire area in the same manner.
    Accelerating:
    Use 41 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

  • Tips for 4001 Waterbased Epoxy

    Prevent Streaking:
    Because 4001 provides a wet look it can cause streaking if not applied correctly. keep the material cool and do not apply at the hottest time of the day. Also it is extremely important to maintain a wet edge. If the material is allowed to dry before the next roller pass is applied then you have the possibility of it streaking.
    Prevent Whitening or Blushing of The Dry Material:
    There are 2 causes related to the material turning white when wet. 1.Mixing, it is not mixed correctly so be sure your applicators understand the importance of mixing correctly when using 2 component products. Just because it is thin does not mean you ca use a stick to stir it, if you do be prepared to get white blush spots in areas that are exposed to water or MVE. 2. Potlife 4001 will still remain fluid after the potlife has been exceeded and the problem that this creates is that the applicator still thinks it is ok to use because it looks and smells the same. So to try and save on material they will apply it and sometimes it looks ok or other times it will turn white like when it becomes wet. DO NOT USE AFTER THE STATED POTLIFE!
    Its Too Late I Already Have White Areas:
    First , do not seal over white 4001 that has not dried clear, if you do chances are the sealer will prevent you from repairing the 4001 and removal will be needed. If it is do to poor mixing then take care and wipe down the area with xylene until the white goes away. Then lightly sand the area and re-coat. This will work to resolve minor problems like barely over the potlife or slight variations from the potlife and if the whiteness is caused from water coming from above (instead of below up thru the slab). If the problem is more severe then removal of the 4001 and then proper re-application may be needed.
    I Love the 4001 but I Need a Matte Finish:
    Apply a coat of 5400 Matte over it.
    It is also possible to pre-wear the surface by using buffing machines and proper pads and this will also provide a matte finish.
    I use the 4001 as a Primer For Other Systems:
    4001 is often used as a primer below finish resins, microtopping's or other clear sealers and it works great when used correctly. It is very important to apply the material over the 4001 shortly after it has set up and within a few hours of it drying. If you wait too long to apply the next layer over it then you risk the chance of the 4001 becoming a bond breaker. This is due to its high hardness and most material will not bond well to it. If the 4001 is very hard (check by using a fingernail, it will be difficult to scratch) then you will need to re-apply. If it is longer than 24 hours then it will need to be lightly sanded before re-application of 4001.

We have compiled a list of useful sites in our industry.  Here you will find associations and authority websites that can provide valuable information.

Here are some links to resources in the concrete and coatings industry:

American Concrete Institute ACI for technical and education information pertraining to concrete design, repair, maintenance and construction.

ASTM Cement Standards and Concrete Standards - This is the government agency that sets standards for abrasion testing, etc

Concrete Countertop Institute - They provide training and educational information both on site and self-study on various concrete countertop topics

Concrete Flooring on DIY Network - The Concrete Flooring section on the DIY Network website is a great resource for Do-It-Yourself'ers when it comes to concrete floor coatings

CA Contractors State License Board - Offers information on California contractors and regulates contractor licensing in the state

 


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