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Floor prep 1 Year, 6 Months ago
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Karma: 0
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Hey guys,
I am curious as to how many applicators prefer grinding a floor versus pressure washing/ other methods?
We grind every floor we install. We have a MQ9700 generator (has wheels and goes in the back of the cube truck)that we run a walk behind planetary head grinder from. For edges and detail grinding we use 7" Metabo grinders and 4" Harbor Freight specials with a cup wheel. We seem to be having good success with this method.
THE KEY TO A SUCCESSFUL GRIND PREP IS CLEANING THE DUST OFF THE FLOOR!!!
This is easier to accomplish with more certainty than neutralizing acids...
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Re: Floor prep 1 Year, 6 Months ago
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Karma: 2
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Floor prep:
Diamond grinding is the best way to go becasue it eliminates factors such as old curing agents or sealers that may be present on sporatic sections of the concrete surface. It's nice to know that you've removed these and the surface is a little "flater" after the grind process.
Just a quick rinse with clean water or use the V-100 degreaser, diluted 5 to 1 and rinse well. 10 minutes with a rubber squeggee and leaf blower should remove all the heavy water from the floor & control joints. Allow to dry for 45 - 60 minutes and your ready to go! Both 4195 and 4150 can be applied over damp concrete. Both these primers still have the wicking action, even when applied over damp cocnrete! ( The water rinse process will remove any small particles of dust that remain after vacuuming.
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Re:Floor prep 1 Year, 4 Months ago
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Karma: 1
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Hello Matt , PC Rich here ,
interesting dilemma here , put down 4195 on a mechanically prepped floor Grind n Go ..put down flake and had some bare spots that I missed during flaking ..to correct I primed the entire floor with with 5205 and re-flaked and wanted to add some color as well..so I did with flake I had from previous Job ...needless to say I ended up with something I am really not happy with, So I want to re-do the whole thing ..I have since put on My coatings remove bits on the Grind and Go ,, they look like wheels with teeth almost like spurs on Cowboy boots ..I have ran the Grinder on the entire floor to give the existing floor I put down some mechanical edge..I have diamond grinded the edges almost down to orig surface , How much more grinding you think I need to do ? or how much more prep ..before I put down the 4195 and start again? just to note I am re-doing the floor because I do not like the way it turned out ..color and pattern wise , the epoxy and the chips went down just fine as all of my other floors ..
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Re:Floor prep 1 Year, 4 Months ago
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Karma: 0
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Rich,
You said you didn't like the chip coverage on this floor. Couple of things:
1.) If you are hand throwing the chips, consider getting VBP's chip gun. It takes a small tank-less compressor but allows you to put down chips faster and more evenly than hand throwing.
2.) You might have had some spots in the 4195 that dried before you got the chips down which allowed the chips to be swept off later.
3.) You might have had some overly wet spots of 4195 which allowed the chips to sink in and be partially covered by the epoxy. Make sure you have a very even coating of 4195 and then let it tack up for several minutes (more or less depending on the ambient temperature) before you spread the chips.
If you grind this floor off, all you need to do is to run the water splash test to see if it porous again.
Patrick
California Concrete Restoration
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Last Edit: 2010/09/21 11:59 By calconcrete.
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Re:Floor prep 1 Year, 4 Months ago
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Karma: 2
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Rich,
Not sure if recieved the replay I sent over the weekend via my cell phone, so just wanted to confirm that you were go to go... After the grind / scratch prep workj you did, your fine to redo the floor and apply the 4195 epoxy and flakes again.
Good luck, and as always, let me know if you have any other questions.
Matthew Newman
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Re:Floor prep - Clean, clean, clean is the mantra 1 Year, 4 Months ago
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Karma: 0
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All of us are using and selling premium quality coating products but it makes no sense to put them down on dirty, non-porous floors. A little cleaning prep up front will save you lots of time and materials doing a repair later.
Obviously you need to thoroughly sweep dirt off the floor and blow it off with a leaf blower to get a cleaner surface.
We frequently use VBP's V100 cleaner on oil spots and areas which fail the simple 'drop some water on it and see if it turns dark quickly' test.
We grind only when necessary as when there is a sealer, paint or mastic on the floor. Then we up-charge the customer.
We never acid wash a garage floor. Acid doesn't do anything for oil stains or old sealers or paint. It also requires heavy-duty pressure washing which will probably impact the paint and sheet rock in the garage. It will also leave debris on the driveway which you will have to wash off down to the curb. (Check with your local EPA about what materials can be flushed down a storm drain.)
Patrick Dowd
California Concrete Restoration
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